Book Distribution - Sunday, September 8th
Laura and I woke up to a very gloomy day that I hoped would improve as the day progressed. It never did! Laura packed her umbrella and gave me her plastic rain hoody. As we left Lucca all the shops had modestly priced umbrellas available but I insisted that the rain was very light and would likely clear. Whether I was just too cheap or did not want to carry an umbrella all day, who knows, I opted to go without to my greatest regret. As we ventured off with Laura’s small umbrella and the flimsy plastic hoody the rain gained momentum. We barley reached the car in the Lucca car park than the heavens opened in a full and raging torrent.
Luckily, it was a Sunday morning and the traffic was lighter than usual. The roads, with all the round abouts, were a navigational challenge, twisting and turning in all directions. Luckily again, Laura has driven in many countries while I white knuckled the entire drive, she managed beautifully. Once we left the city of Lucca, I relaxed for a bit, although the torrential rain made visibility an issue. Our first stop was Coreglia Antelminelli where we were scheduled to drop off an image makers’ book set at the statuary museum up by the church. The drive up the mountain side is on a sunny day scarier than hell. On this rainy day I thought I might pass out as Laura kept saying it wasn’t so bad and that “at least it had guard rails,” unlike our eventual drive from Coreglia to Gromignana where guard rails were an after thought. I would possibly have taken a few photos but we were driving in the clouds. I had driven the road myself many times, but never in the rain, I was scared shitless.
When we reached the city plateau we parked. We found a spot in the lot where it was covered. We secured a book set and headed up the hill to the museum. I knew from many previous visits we either needed to make our way up by the stairs or the steep sloop. I choose the stairs which was just another of the many bad decisions I made on this trip. I momentarily lost my way but then, after a slight correction, we found the museum. Both Laura and I were totally soaked from head to toe. Laura took a few photos as she decided we either had to laugh or cry. I was crying and she was laughing! Oh my God, I had never experienced such a rain shower and it was unrelenting.
BOOK ONE - Coreglia Statuary Museum
This was for me the most important book drop as it was this museum in 2000, when I first visited, that had virtually no information about our ancestors image making history. While at the time I did not have any idea that this would spark the idea for the Gromignana Image Makers' book set, the lack of historical information on our ancestors and their work over centuries bothered me deeply. Now twenty four years later our ancestor's story hopefully will be available at the statuary Museo in Coreglia (hopefully the museum will make it available to visitors, who knows, as on subsequent visits they appeared to have little interest).
After a brief stop at the museum, where they accepted my historical offering with little fanfare, Laura and I stopped at a local coffee shop to escape the rain and have a coffee (photo #3 above). We waited for the rain to subside but it just seemed to rage more furiously. From the coffee shop we headed to the restaurant for lunch. We were the only patrons.
The one good thing about the restaurant stop is that we could have a glass of wine to calm our nerves and they had a hand drier in the bathroom where we tried in vain to dry our clothes and hair. It was a futile attempt but the warm air felt wonderful during the numerous times I employed the drier. Laura had a pizza and I had pasta. It was not our best meal of the trip but it was sufficient for the moment.
After lunch, still soaking wet, we proceeded to Gromignana. The drive down the hill and up to Gromignana was not as intimidating as I knew this road well. The only concern I had as we headed down from Coreglia is that the road might be blocked with mud and debris from the wind and rain that continued to rage. Luckily, we passed with little difficulty although I recall from an earlier visit the hill at the bottom portion of the road had collapsed and you had to drive a very circuitous route to travel from Gromignana and Coreglia and back. Also, I always think of my great grandmother, Adelasia Grisanti Mattei, as I travel that road as this is where she met her death. She plummets into the valley in a donkey cart carrying wine casts. Her and the donkey died and she apparently had been crushed by one of the casts. I often wonder as I view the steep fall she must have endured, how they retrieved her body and wreckage in 1903.
BOOK TWO - Phil & Ros
Our first stop in Gromignana was the old PINK HOUSE, where our ancestors lived (the Dominico Grisanti and David (Innocenzo) Mattei families). Living there now is Phil and Ros who purchased the home from our family circa 1988. They have improved the house tremendously and I always have a warm feeling upon entering. Phil and Ros have been so welcoming over the years but, unfortunately, I was soaking wet. Laura was struggling with turning the car around in the driveway as I dropped the books. I promised Phil to talk with him at church that evening (he plays the organ at the Masses). Unfortunately, I did not get much time to talk with him later that day but he wrote the following after our visit…
EMAIL Wednesday, September 18, 2024
It was very good to see you and I'm sorry that circumstances meant we were unable to speak at greater length.
This is to say a heart-felt thank you for your very generous gift of your books. They represent an astonishing piece of research which must have taken a huge amount of time; it's to everyone's benefit and a lasting record of the history of Gromignana and its inhabitants. The amount of detail is truly extraordinary and one particular feature that I like is that it is possible to dip into the book and find fascinating details on any page. I was particularly touched by the section on Alice Mattei and the photos of her which brought back many happy memories. Alice was truly a saint and I remember her inviting us all to lunch a number of times when we spoke practically no Italian. She was a very good cook!
Thank you again for all your kindness and generosity - you have created a truly amazing account of the local history here.
Phil and Ros were very helpful in my research on the PINK house and they were always so welcoming during my various research visits. Thanks to them for their generous spirit and hospitality.
BOOK THREE & FOUR
The Renato & Alba Gonnella Pellegrini Family
Our next stop was to visit and drop books at Renato Pellegrini and his wife, Alba Gonnella. Renato is Giovanna Pellegrini’s younger brother. I had the privilege of being at their home for a number of dinners during various research visits, meeting and talking with numerous extended family. In June, 2022, they invited me to their grandson’s first communion which was such a unique Italian experience. I will never forget the occasion and their welcoming spirit.
I felt a little bad entering Renato and Alba’s house totally soaked but as always, they were as gracious as ever. We had cafe’ and biscotti and I preceded to flip through the books with Renato and Alba. Even though we had difficulty communicating we were able to enjoy the photos of the past with great delight. While Renato was born in 1951, he did recall the photos of many of the people profiled. I left Renato and Alba BOOK THREE and they will share BOOK FOUR with Giovanna Pellegrini's husband, Raffaello, and her family.
While Renato and I paged through the books , Alba took Laura out on a garden and vineyard tour and to visit with their daughter-in-law's pet pig and also their chickens. The rain continued but Laura really enjoyed the tour.
BOOK FIVE & SIX - Graziella and Loretta
After this visit we were off to Al Colletta, the home built by my great grandfather, Giovacchino Mattei (Profiles: pages 113-115), with the assistance of my grandfather, Pellegrino, and my uncle Medo (both Giovacchino’s sons). As you may have read in the image makers’ book, Pellegrino and Medo inherited the Al Colletta after their father's death. However, since their sister, Ruccia, had cared for Giovacchino until he died in 1945, Pellegrino and Medo, deeded her the house and property to Ruccia, both having their own homes. The property passed on to Ruccia’s children, and then to their children. Laura and I would visit and have dinner with two of Ruccia’s granddaughters, Graziella and Loretta, and their husbands, Orine and Ezio.
We arrived at 3:30 PM and had a wonderful visit. We drank wine and tried to communicate using Google translation. This is a very exhausting but an effective way to talk with one another under the constrained circumstances of not knowing each other’s language. Graziella, our hostess, bemoaned the fact that the rain had forced us inside as the plan was to dine on their large terrace overlooking the valley. The only advantage of staying indoors was that the house was so hot with all the cooking in progress that my dress began to dry; my underwear never completely dried throughout the evening. I had brought an extra pair of shoes which was one of the best decisions I had made on this trip but it took another three days for my first pair of shoes to dry completely (I share this fact so you will fully understand the effects of the down pour).
The meal Graziella served was simply divine to say the least. The meal began with the traditional antipasto with arugula, cheeses and Italian cold cuts (including blood sausage, which always reminds me of Aunt Dorina and Uncle Gosty, having a wonderful deep flavor matching its color). This was accompanied by a spelt salad which was truly amazing. The main course was roasted pork with rosemary, oven friend potatoes and freshly steamed green beans. All the dishes were quickly gobbled up! The dinner included a variety of wines and other little bites (olives, etc.). Dessert was a thick and rich chocolate torta served with coffee and after dinner liqueurs. Below are a few photos of our visit.
Ezio, Graziella, Loretta and me
Loretta, Ezio and Orine
Orine and Graziella
Image Maker Domenico Grisanti with us in spirit!
Graziella, Laura and Loretta
What was most interesting about dinner in the dining room was that directly across from me I could look up into the eyes of a young Domenico Grisanti (1821-1907) - see photo #2 and #3 above. The oral history of the portrait was that it was one of the first he had taken after an early trip to Brazil where he made a considerable amount of money in the statuary trade. The portrait made its way to Al Colletta from Al Crociale but the timing and circumstance of his portrait finding a home there is unknown. Dominica’s oldest child was Adelasia, who may have brought it into her home at some point before she died. Nonetheless, this photo in its wonderful gold frame, has been on that very wall for over 125 years. On another wall is the original Mattei coat of arms. The spirit of our ancestors was clearly present in the home and it gave me a chill (although the chill may have just been the result of being soaked through and through!).
Lighted Bell Tower as seen
from Al Colletta
Graveyard and Saint Cassiano as we approached in the rain
Mass in progress, a beautiful ceremony!
Around 8:00 we all made our way to Saint Cassiano’s for Mass and the Blessed Virgin Benediction. The procession had been canceled due to the rain. I love attending Mass at Saint Cassiano. There is a spirit that permeates throughout. There are reminders of the image makers everywhere. I just keep thinking about how all our ancestors since the 1700s had worshipped in that very place. I am often moved to tears thinking about it. I always love to stop by the baptismal font to say a prayer for my grandmother, Mary, and grandfather, Pellegrini, who donated the font in memory of their oldest son, and my uncle Jack (see "A Sweet Young Man Remembered" on 184 of the Profiles).
BOOKS 7 & 8 - Saint Cassiano & the Marchetti Family
After Mass and Bennediction festivities followed. This gathering would usually have been held in the parish hall but since the rain continued a room in the back of the church was used (the rain had also kept attendance low). This was my opportunity to give the parish's roving priest and the Marchetti family a copy of the books. Laura and I stayed for just a few minutes to chat and take a few photos (see below). We had to drive back to Lucca and by the time we departed it as nearing 11:00 PM.
The statue of Mary (above) would have been carried through the lighted streets. It is a very moving ceremony and sadly it was likely my last chance to walk in the procession.
Some of those who gathered for the festivities after the ceremony. I am always struck by how many have familar surnames like Mattei, Grisanti, etc. We are all likely still distantly related to many in Gromignana.
PRIEST, ME, ALBA GONNELLA & ANDREA MARCHETTI
(Read about Andrea's family, Prolfies, pg. 228 &
Alba's family page 234-236)
Graveyard as we passed to leave
Message from Andrea after the event...
"Unfortunately it was a very bad day due to the rain and it ruined the party by not being able to have the procession and lights in the streets. However, I think it was an equally beautiful evening, nonetheless. I have to thank you so much for the books you wrote and brought to Gromignana. A huge job! There will be an opportunity to present it later to everyone. A copy will be kept in the parish archive. This bond between Gromignana and its emigrants is beautiful."
I will refrain from describing the drive back to Lucca as I believe by now you will have figured out how harrowing it was with little light and the rain unrelenting. While we had a wonderful visit with family and friends, we had not delivered all the books. We would return on another days when the rains had subsided and the day sunnier.
BOOK 9 - Elsa, Fabio & Sylvia
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2024
On the following Tuesday the weather appeared to be perfect for a return visit to Coreglia and Gromignana. Our first stop was the Coreglia cemetery where I visited the graves of image makers, Pietro and Libia Mattei. I had wanted to lay flowers at their resting place and secure photos for their nephew, Maurice Mattei. Upon sending the photos of the visit to Maurice he replied with a very special note. It reads as follows…
Thank you so much for your thoughtfulness in visiting my Aunt's grave and bringing flowers. Such a wonderful gesture. Luana was Libia's daughter. These two women were pivotal in my life. They were both very strong women. Libia ran the figurine factory after Pietro died and Luana was the president of a high school in Alba, a city in Piemonte where she and her husband (Armando) lived. Both Libia and Luana always charted their own course, regardless of cultural norms. Luana, in particular, was very clear-willed and possessed an amazing intellect. I miss them both very much. (email Friday, September 13, 2024).
I needed to drop books for Elsa, Fabio and Silvia Mattei who are the last of the Gromignana image makers. They continue to operate their figurine painting business in their home shop. We just dropped the books and then proceeded to the Gromignana cemetery where I visited Giovanna Pellegrini’s grave site to thank her posthumously for all her assistance with the image makers' research. I am devastated that she died before reading the history, although she read much of the writings before she passed away last October. She was a very special woman.
BOOK 10 - Francesca
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2024
While staying in Lucca, I contacted Francesca, who has been a wonderful chain link for the Pacifico Grisanti family for many years. She graciously met Laura and I for a drink at a restaurant in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. Once she received the book, I breathed a sigh of relief knowing everyone had received their copies.
ARIEL VIEW OF PIAZZA DELL'ANFITEATRO
Sharing photos of the Louisville August Event with Francesca